Review: Etch, Sydney

Christmas has rolled around once again, and I'm always sad once I reach the other side of the festive season. No more presents, no more decorations, and no more Christmas parties.

Above all else, there is a particular thing I look forward to during the lead up to Christmas, and it's the multitude of work parties and lunches that occur during the period. Sadly, I heard that many work parties were downsized this year as a result of the GFC, but luckily for me, I nevertheless had the chance to pick the restaurant to book for our midday feast this year.

There was one criterium and one only. That is, the place had to be located somewhere close to where SK is currently doing her vacation work so that she may be able to join us during her lunch break.


Because of the late notice, finding a place proved to be a little difficult. However, with a little luck, I rediscovered Etch - the brainchild of Becasse's Justin North. The restaurant was situated in the perfect place, and thus it did not take me long to pick up a phone and lock ourselves in.


As one walks into the restaurant, the immediate surrounding will undoubtedly strike you as a form of subdued elegance and pretty. There's a hint of playfulness in the quirkiness of design - it's almost like a place taken straight out of a page of Frankie Magazine.

The service here is attentive and professional. As we settled ourselves into the comfortable chairs, we sneakily eavesdropped another table to listen to a very well informed waiter carefully divulging the intricacies of each dish.


We first nibbled on a little ciabatta to satisfy the peckish. (Like me). The Ciabatta was soft and full of flavour. Definitely more interesting than your standard Foccacia.

6 hour braised beef cheek, baby vegetables, Madeira consomme - $34

We skipped entrees and dived straight into the mains. I have to say, however, that it was incredibly hard to resist the temptation to go for a 3 course lunch and stuff myself to the absolute brim.

The decision for the Boss was straight forward. It took her less than 2 seconds to decide on the Braised Beef Cheek - something which she has been dying to dig into since our visit to Mad Cow during the Winter Feast. She had tried to order this dish on a second visit, but sadly it was no longer on offer.

The cheeks were absolutely divine and melted away the minute it touched your tongue. The madeira consomme provided a really robust and flavoursome backdrop against the sweetness of the meat - I think I almost cried a little when I tasted it.

Provencal potatoes, aged prosciutto, smoked garlic mayonnaise - $9 (Please do yourself a favour and try this.)

Local sea bream, crumbed scampi, fennel puree, citrus a la grecque - $31

DW and JH both ordered the local sea bream, which was a beautiful piece of fish cooked to absolute perfection. Both were really taken away by the fennel puree (something which has given me motivation to slave away in the kitchen to perfect), and were overall just in gleeful happiness as they slid each morsel into their mouths.

Spaghetti, sauteed prawns, peas, prawn bisque - $30

While I was tempted to try the Lobster Thermidore, I eventually decided to leave that dish for another day while I examined the particulars of prawn bisque. I know it was just a single element to the dish at large, but since the early days of foodie adventures, I've grown particularly fond of assessing individual elements of each dish in hope that I may be able to replicate them in my own kitchen one day.

Yes, some people have suggested that it would just be easier going to a culinary school...but I often prefer the scenic route.

Either way, I absolutely LOVED the prAWniness (hehe) of this dish. The bisque was an absolute explosion of flavour in my mouth. Then there was the Spring-freshness of the peas, then the satisfying bite of the spaghetti, and then the pure indulgence of a well cooked and flavoured prawn - all of which was then signed and sealed by an almost palate-cleansing taste of the cress.

Pear and Lillet blanc trifle - $15

While dessert had not been part of the original plan, as soon as we were handed the dessert menu, deep down we all knew that it was going to happen, whether we wanted it or not (but seriously, who wouldn't?)

Upon seeing the option of a trifle, JH cheerfully reminisced the times when her mother made her version of trifle back in Kiwiland. The next thing we knew, everyone was sharing the own visions and memories of a trifle made and enjoyed. It was interesting to see how a simple dessert, with its myriad of transformations, could spark a strange unity in a table of people from very different backgrounds. Spiced nougatine parfait, figs - $15

Lastly we happily shared a plate of Parfait - which was really one of the best dessert dishes I've ever had. The parfait was lusciously smooth and creamy - and only just mildly sweet. JH and SJ both commented on how this dessert simply wasn't sweet enough to their liking, while I happily nommed away on what I thought to be a dessert with the perfect level of sweetness. I had often discussed with JH (who is an absolute sweettooth) the Western vs. Asian dessert issue, and why if you enjoyed one it was always easy to be disappointed by another. It may just be the two of us and we are by no means a good sample for the entire population, but there are obvious differences between the two.

To be fair I would often point out my general apathy towards chocolate, and my utter dislike of dense and immensely sweet flavours. The confusing thing is, JH says the exact same thing about Asian desserts? So my gut feeling tells me that the problem probably lies in textural differences too, but I'm not too sure.

So I hand the problem over to you. What does it take to turn a "good" dessert into a "great" dessert?

Etch Restaurant
62 Bridge Street
Sydney NSW 2000
Tel: (02) 9247 4777
Opens: Monday to Friday 12pm - late, Saturday 5pm - late

Review: Malaysian Food House, Sydney

Last Thursday DW and I decided to venture past the cute little courtyard where we usually have our work lunches into the somewhat haphazard depths that is known as Hunter Arcade. The food here is relatively cheap compared to places elsewhere in the CBD, but the quality of food really does vary quite substantially from place to place.

We had originally planned on going to the Naughty Chef (hee hee) down in the tunnel section, but the line was extraordinarily long by the time we arrived, and given that we only had an hour to lunch, we didn't think we could finish our meals in time and actually enjoy the experience.

So Plan B was then to visit Malaysian Food House. Tucked away in a corner located at the bottom of one of the billion sets of escalators in the place, this place offered quick, cheap Malaysian meals during the busy lunchtime period.

Har Mee - $7.90

I chose the daily special, which was the Har Mee (Prawn Broth Noodles). I've always looooooved Har Mee (along with Satay Mee) and I was pretty excited to be eating it for lunch. However the broth was very disappointing. It was quite heavily concentrated in MSG rather than the distinctive taste of prawn broth. I spent the afternoon drinking copious amounts of water just to stay alive.

Oh and there was only one piece of prawn. What the heck?

This is our second visit to this place, and I was really quite surprised by the quality of food on this occasion. DW selected the Chicken Laksa, which I had ordered last time. The soup was definitely tasty, and very very coconutty, but as DW slowly tucked into her noodles, she realised that whoever cooked the dish had forgotten to put any chicken in.

What the heck right?

Oh well, perhaps they were just too busy on the day? Either way, knowing us, we will probably try our chances again at this place some day down the track. I may find myself dissatisfied yet again, but when you're hungry at work with a limited time to suffice that hunger, sometimes common sense just flies out the window...

Review: Mad Cow (Merivale Winter Feast), Sydney

Oh gosh, I've been waiting for these photos. I forgot to pick up the DSLR from JL so I had to borrow SK's camera to take these photos.

A few weeks ago my boss SJ treated us girls at work to the glorious Mad Cow, situated within the Ivy. It was an occasion to farewell one of my best friend (and also my workmate) HH as she is jetting off to go on exchange in France.

For those of you wondering, yes, I've tried my best, in all my weird and quirky ways to convince her to pack me in her suitcase and take me with her.

At least now I know I'm less convincing than I thought I was...

Now, moving onto topic, as you walk into Mad Cow, it would seem that you are instantly taken away into a secluded garden in amidst the chaos of Sydney. The furnishing are vibrantly coloured, with splashes of yellow and grassy green all around the walls and lounges.

I know I'm stating the obvious when I call the design of the place classy. I mean, seriously, it's the Ivy and all...but the strange thing about Mad Cow is the quirkiness of an Alice-in-Wonderland type of feel which gives it the sort of character that distinguishes it from the general (and sometimes seedy) image of "class" you find around Sydney.

There was nothing to complain about the service here really. We were quickly seated, and the waitress and waiters were perfectly flexible and happy to cater to our requests. A multigrain bread was soon brought to us with a slab of smooth butter. At first glance it brought back memories of that delightful bread we had at Silk's in Leura. However, there was no scent of the sweet honey that lingered around the table, and I knew straight away that it was just not the same.

Still good bread though. I was perfectly happy to keep nomming.

Braised Wagyu Beef Cheeks, Mushrooms, Celeriac, Broad Beans

For those who already know about Merivale's Winter Feast, you would know that for $35, the menu provided in each restaurant is fairly limited in selection, but embraces a large spectrum of tastes and styles. At Mad Cow, there was a clear standout in the menu (at least for our table). About 3 or 4 serves of the Braised Wagyu Beef Cheeks were ordered and it was absolutely delightful. The meat was fork-tender and moist with a deep, robust taste of the red wine sauce it is braised in. I don't usually like broad beans, but heck, these little green pellets around the dish were sweet and just cooked and went perfectly with the meat.

Risotto of Pumpkin, Spinach, Sage, Parmigiano Reggiano

SJ had originally ordered the Beef Cheeks as well, but quickly changed to the Pumpkin Risotto upon seeing that everyone had ordered the same thing. She said she had done it for me (and my research purposes), so I was absolutely thrilled, even though deep down I regretted letting out a small whinge that everyone had ordered the same thing.

I was a little surprised by the presentation of the dish. It seemed rather out of character and below-par when compared to the other dishes that came out.

People say beauty is only skin-deep -- I extend that to the realm of food as I genuinely believe that some of the most ugly looking dishes are often the nicest tasting ones. This one was no exception. The idea of the dish is simple, subtle and understated, but the taste that comes from it is wonderfully generous and playful - if that's even a way to describe food?

I only had a small spoonful, but I think I would've probably licked the plate clean if I had ordered it.
Crispy Skin Ocean Trout Fillet, Olive Caper Tomato Salsa

SK ordered the Ocean Trout (also just to be different for research purposes). She said that the skin was really crispy and the salmon was flaky but cooked really well such that it wasn't dry nor undercooked.

I knew secretly she was waiting for dessert...

Crisp Meringue, Raspberry Sorbet, Blueberry Compote

And then it came to us.

I think at this point I nearly fell off my lounge, even though it was rather physically impossible. Doesn't the meringue and cream just look like balls of fluffy clouds, gently sustaining the quinelle of raspberry sorbet?

No complaints here, except maybe there was too little of it.

Single Selection of Local and Imported Cheese, Gala Apple, Walnut Bread (and Muscatels)

Others on the table opted for the selection of cheeses. Cheese is life in a really stinky package. Seriously. Some people love durian, I love cheeses.

(Pardon my forgetfulness, but I can't remember where these cheeses were from)
We received, in order from the top, a slice of blue cheese, a block of mixed goats and soft cheese (?), and a slice of pecorino.

The goats cheese was the outstanding winner of the three and I was tempted to ask for more. The pecorino was not so popular as it was a bit too strong and overpowering. And lastly, the Blue cheese was, is, and always will be a huge divider of the table. I personally liked it, but couldn't handle very much of it. It wasn't like the creamy goats cheese where I could simply just keep eating more and more.

Overall we had a great lunch there. SJ left us early to get back to the office, and the rest of us just sat around gossiping and wishing HH all the best in France. Like I said earlier, this lunch happened a while back, and HH had already hopped on the plane last Thursday.

It's only been a few days and I miss her dearly already. Au revoir mon ami.


Mad Cow
Level 1, 330 George Street
Sydney, NSW 2000
Tel: (02) 9240 3000
Website: http://www.merivalewinterfeasts.com/Default.aspx

Merivale Winter Feast @ Mad Cow :: $35 for 2 courses, $45 for 3 courses.
Includes glass of wine/James Squire

Review: Jaya Malaysian, Sydney

Beef Laksa - $8.50

So...

For those of you who may be wondering how on earth I've been supporting my appetite (and tendency to roam around Sydney looking for the greatest noms), well... long story short... I work.

Shock horror isn't it?

And because DW and I both work on Fridays during the semester, we have made it a weekly routine to eat around work. Last week (yes, I've been lagging behind with my posts recently. I'll explain after I'm done talking about food), we decided to have laksa again.

Why? Because DW loves to have laksa at Jaya Malaysian, which is a tiny outlet tucked away in a courtyard at the Maritime Trade Tower down in Wynyard/Millers Point. If you weren't working nearby, I seriously don't think you'd find it.

Chicken Laksa - $8.50

Personally, I quite like the laksa here too. It's not too creamy and on most days the flavouring is pretty much spot on. The tofu is plenty squishy, full of creamy goodness from the soup, and goes wonderfully with both the chicken or the beef. (I've had both.)

The place isn't anything fancy, but I must say that the courtyard is beautifully covered by the greenery during the summer months, and filled with sunlight during the winter months. It really is a quiet, secluded haven amidst a bustling city during the day, perfect for a quiet lunch with a friend.

Jaya Malaysian at Maritime Trade Tower
Level 3 Retail Courtyard
201 Kent Street
Sydney, NSW 2000


P.S. My posts will be only just trickling through in the next two weeks as I'm in the middle of my final exams. This is where I start kicking myself for nomming away too much during the semester and ignoring my beloved textbooks for a good 12 weeks.

Pray to God that I'll live to tell the tale.